China View: The Last Matriarchy

Woman looming - Chien-min Chung/Getty Images

Woman looming - Chien-min Chung/Getty Images

The People’s Republic of China is renowned worldwide for hosting an overwhelming ethnic majority of Han Chinese across its territory, however, what many may not know is that the contemporary status quo recognizes over 56 ethnic groups inhabiting China. While this also includes the Han, constituting nearly 92% of the population in China, other significant ethnic groups include the Hakkas, the Zhuang, the Uyghurs, and the Manchus, along with many others.

The pie chart below gathers 15 distinguished ethnic groups that might be recognizable among a whole-Han crowd. Most of these ethnicities present peculiar physical features due to their area of provenance. Indeed, the identities of some groups such as the Uyghurs, Tibetans, Chinese Koreans, Kazakhs, Mongols, Russians, Kyrgyz, and Uzbeks differ according to their location of origin, found along Chinese borders with Central and Northeast Asian countries. While constituting a small percentage of China Mainland’s population, they are still of incredible relevance as they recount a deeper and fuller story of how China was formed, and why differences may compel some of these minorities (e.g. Uyghurs in Xinjiang province) to fight for their independence from the PRC. Information related to these groups is publicly available on the official website of the National Bureau of Statistics of China, however past censuses may unfortunately only be accessible in Mandarin Chinese.

Distinguished Ethnicities in China (%)

Source: National Bureau of Statistics of China. Stats.gov.cn, Population Consensus of 2010.

Amongst minor groups, the Mosuo might be the most interesting of them all. While the Chinese Government places them under the “Nakhi,” the Mosuo are a completely distinct community. Ruled by a matriarchal social structure, their lands are uniquely run by women. This is a tribe of Tibetan Buddhists inhabiting the Chinese province of Yunnan, at the foothills of the Himalayas, gathering approximately 40,000 individuals along the shores of the Lugu Lake.

It is in this marvelous landscape that, for centuries, women have controlled household finances, owned the property rights of lands and houses, and run subsistence farming and fishing. Paradoxically, however, this ancient community cherishes values that even postmodern societies seem to be integrating at a slower pace. In a West-driven world where women were only allowed to access higher education in the 1920s, and patriarchy still opposes gender equality at work and at home in 2020, to leave everything in the hands of women is still unthinkable. But Mosuo women did it. And they did it without asking permission to any men.

In the past, men would either become Buddhist monks or be engaged in trade along the Ancient Silk Road, therefore women were the only hope for keeping the local economy alive. Other than being successful, they decided for themselves what choices to make in their romantic lives, starting the legacy of “Walking Marriages.”

According to this lifestyle, Mosuo women may have multiple partners in their lives, with the goal of making relationships uncomplicated, without formalities, and in the hope of giving birth to many children. In an interview with BBC News, 17-year-old Bima Qizou explains that, compared to Han Chinese, Mosuo do not have the in-laws problem, because love affairs remain informal and do not consider social status or economic background. During the “Walking Marriage,“ a chosen man can visit the household of his lover and hang a cowboy hat outside the door to warn other men of his presence. Couples do not live together, therefore men often return to their own house the morning after.

Children birthed from these unions are raised solely by the mother and rarely ever get to meet their father. While males in the family of the mother often take on the father figure, it is true this practice has changed over time. Caring fathers currently contribute to their kid’s education and upbringing, choosing to build a stronger bond with them separately from the mother. Interestingly, the word “father” does not exist in the Mosuo language and might be a concept introduced only after the establishment of the PRC in 1949, when the Mandarin language was made official. Being of Buddhist origin and not Confucian, the Mosuo society does not fully comply with the 5 ideal relationships created by Confucius, establishing a type of hierarchy that is nonexistent for Mosuo women (i.e. 1) ruler to ruled; 2) father to son; 3) husband to wife; 4) elder to younger brother; 5) friend to friend). In this kingdom, women are the sole rightful heirs to family properties.

“The Land Where Women Rule: Inside China’s Last Matriarchy” (Documentary by: Broadly)

It is no wonder that such an unusual context sparked the attention of anthropologists and tourists, which have made the story of the Mosuo renowned worldwide, but also dragged negative influences that leave doubts on future prospects for this minority. In her book “The Kingdom of Women,” former Singaporean lawyer Choo Waihong recounts her experiences in integrating, after retirement, into the Mosuo community. While her work taught more about the everyday life of the rural minority, it appears to have arisen controversial sentiments for the audience reading chapters related to the “marriage life.”

A current concern is that this tradition has been turned by third parties into the consent to establish illegal prostitution in the area, that does not in any way involve Mosuo women and that is used as a way to attract tourism. While it is still unclear who is to hold accountable for demeaning a custom that was part of the romantic dynamics cherished by the Mosuo, it surely aimed to impact negatively their identity and pride as a minority.

Tourists wanting to sightsee, instead, are welcomed to enjoy the paradisiac environment around Lugu Lake, as well as admire the traditional Mosuo costumes and dances. Sources report that some villages conduct a simple and happy life, improved by the small wealth brought in by selling locally handcrafted goods to tourists.

As time passes, however, young Mosuos aspire to move away in search of better education and luxurious life standards provided by richer coastal cities in the East of China. Therefore, there are serious concerns that this matriarchal structure will continue in the future, and that traditions will remain untouched. Regardless, spreading the story of the Mosuo is important as it may compel societies to reflect on the conventional socially constructed roles given to men and women, which still endure today even in the most developed economies.

Below, a must-watch documentary on the Mosuo ethnicity will give the reader a more detailed and informative insight into the uniqueness of this group.

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